That's why you'll find some "trainers" that won't work with strong dogs, with temperament. If you take the example from those associations that train protection dogs, guide dogs, service dogs you will find that first these dogs are selected for their temperament and the job they will perform. The message in that is, selection and temperament are primary in your choice. Not bred from a Champion (just because) of conformation, not from dogs that are cute and are of beautiful color but dogs that will fit effectively and functionally in your family. This is a serious acquisition of great importance. Responsible ownership is what needs to be taught and understood. There are many wonderful breeds around the world, over four hundred plus. Not all are recognized by the American Kennel Club, usually because there isn't a high enough population of them to be profitable under their registration system.

When it comes to breeders there are many types. The ones that will tell you that they have been breeding for thirty years and know it all are the ones to watch out for. Knowing it all can be dangerous! What they should be telling you is what they did to create these puppies and what was done on their part to enhance their little beings. It is all very scientific, and in many instances was done as a precursor to similar programs related to understanding development and the benefits of early stimulation. This would eliminate many of the reasons for getting rid of dogs and for the true lovers of dogs you would find healthier, longer-living companions. The biggest killer of young dogs is lack of training! (Fogle)

Breeders should be able to understand genetics, temperament, conformation in that order unlike the norm, which is very often conformation (champions) or no knowledge at all. Just I've got a dog and you have a dog, hey they're even of the same breed, or maybe what do you think we would get? Or another favorite is the subjective breeder will tell you they have such a wonderful temperament. Almost all breeds have a standard that covers temperament and the judgment of that is significant as to the specific breed. That's to say a Cocker Spaniel shouldn't have a Rottweilers temperament nor vice versa. When we breed for type we should be trying to breed ones strong points to another's weakness and vice-versa.

What is being reviewed here is obviously subjective in many circles that refuse to follow science and I have no solution for them. I just think these things should be evident and studied by anyone seriously interested in dogs. I believe and utilize the Biotonus Program; Eberhard Trumler, the Bio-sensor Program (Early stimulation days 3-16) and the Imprinting of puppies (days 21- 16 weeks) these programs are precursors to what you may desire in your companion and show you how to get it.

I go one step further and that is the preparation of the female to be bred. She should be in great health and condition. That means she would be immunized prior to being bred so as to have a high titer (immune system) to pass on to her pups. Her physical condition should involve physical conditioning such as roadwork, swimming etc. This allows for her to have the correct muscle tone for delivery or sustained delivery. This can be important under the worst scenario. It can save the female and her puppies' lives. Losing puppies is bad enough without correct preparation.

There should be an understanding that mother and pups need to have quiet time together and that these pups are not baby dolls to be played with but vital living creatures that deserve understanding. A puppy that becomes chilled after being warm is in peril so drafts should be avoided. Breeders of show dogs will often keep pups until twelve weeks or some other subjective age that they feel they are able to judge what may be stated as show quality. The best time to evaluate structure is at the moment of birth when the skeletal structure is most evident to the truly trained eye. Biotonus (zest for life); is also most evident at this time. (Eberhard Trumler) Activity level is observed on pups at this time by how hard or with zest they seek their mothers teat. This is where survival is most vital and drives are recognized.

Another thing I believe in is the removal or weaning of pups at twenty-eight days. It insures your pups will be natural retrievers, that they are people oriented more than dog-dog oriented. This is important unless you are working or competing in pack situations, i.e. sledding, hunting. Know what you are reproducing dogs for is the first step. Then breeding the two best dogs available for that endeavor is primary. This also helps the female to recover her teats if you take her off food for twenty-four to thirty hours, as she will go into her own milk for sustenance. This time away from the pups will be easier if she has something else to think about.

These are some of the things I apply to insure my dogs are getting every benefit I can offer for their well being and that of their new family. When I sell pups they also go with a training agreement as insurance to a happy fulfilled life. Please don't pick a puppy for it's cuteness. They are all cute as puppies; but you must KNOW what they have been created as in their breed and what their temperament will be as older dogs. Factor your lifestyle and that of your family into your selection.

Written by: Steve Estrada; "Gone to the Dogs" 2002